Vietti Barolo Rocche di Castiglione 2021

This is a serious beauty that reminds us of the brilliant work underway at this leading estate. Yes, ownership has changed over recent years, but this wine remains "Rocche-solid." From an epic vintage, the Vietti 2021 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione is a classic with those elegant mineral notes of glacial till and flake salt followed by carefully ripened fruit, blackcurrant and a finely tuned floral note of fragrant tea leaf that hits the high notes. The effect is ethereal but also precise. Fruit comes from two parcels, one planted in 1958 and the other in 1969, and the blend is half of each fermented together. Fruit was picked on October 1st, and the wine saw 24 days on the skins. The first year this wine was produced is 1961. The Rocche di Castiglione site has 35% sand with marl soils that continue to evolve, kicking out more new sand. Only 3,728 bottles exist, and that's the bad news.

Cherry, raspberry, pomegranate and blood orange flavors are matched by earth, tar and menthol notes in this sleek, supple red. Picks up spice accents while winding down, with dense yet pliable tannins on the finish. Best from 2029 through 2047.

The 2021 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione is elegant, floral and lifted. I also find it a bit reticent in the early going. Crushed flowers, bright red-toned fruit, blood orange, white pepper and spice open with some coaxing. I would not dream of touching a bottle anytime soon, the wine's considerable sensuality notwithstanding.

Aromas of red fruit, strawberries, raspberries, dried herbs, violets and crushed stones. The palate is juicy and full-bodied with fine-grained tannins that turn chewy toward the finish but balance the core of pretty fruit. Better from 2027.