Timo Mayer carries 400 years of German family winemaking into the Yarra Valley, where he works almost exclusively with 100% whole bunch, a technique that here delivers fine, savory tannin rather than green stems. Bright cherry red in the glass, with juicy strawberry and a distinctly cured-meat edge; the sweet berry fruit rides through the mid-palate and gets pulled back into line by herbal, savory notes and a long, ripe finish. Gamay with a little swagger, and nothing sanded off to make it easier.