Thomas-Labaille Sancerre Rose L'Authentique 2023

Sancerre is Sauvignon Blanc country to most people, which makes Thomas-Labaille's Pinot Noir rosé the quiet surprise of the appellation. 25-year-old vines on clay and limestone, farmed sustainably, direct-pressed like a white wine. Native yeasts, fiberglass and cement, four to six months on lees in stainless, and no malolactic, which keeps the acid bright and the mid-palate taut rather than creamy. A rosé with real structure and minerality underneath the fruit. Not a poolside afterthought.