Terlato's estate fruit in Friuli Venezia Giulia makes the case that Pinot Grigio has more to say than most bottles let it. Steel-fermented, no malolactic, then six to eight months on the lees with bâtonnage to build texture without ever softening the edge. Light gold in the glass, with white peach, pear and sliced apple over spring flowers and a thread of honey, the mid-palate mouth-filling and layered before a crisp mineral finish snaps it back into focus. This is what happens when someone takes the grape seriously.