Tenuta Anfosso Rossese di Dolceacqua Superiore Luvaira 2015

Rossese from vines planted in 1905 in the Luvaira cru at San Biagio della Cima, bush-trained alberello wrapping the top of the hill for full exposure, rooted in shale, clay, and limestone. Half to sixty percent whole cluster gives it a savory lift over the fruit, and the 2015 has settled into something perfumed and fine-boned, with tannin that reads as structure rather than grip. A hundred and twenty years of vine memory in a glass, and Liguria still isn't charging for it.