Tenuta Anfosso Rossese di Dolceacqua Superiore Fulavin 2015

Rossese from the Fulavin cru in Soldano, where Anfosso farms bush-trained alberello vines planted in 1977 and 1998 on stone terraces cut into cliffs above Dolceacqua. Flysch soils of shale, clay, and limestone, and an appellation small enough to walk across. Half-again whole cluster on the maceration gives it lift and a savory snap, and the aging (four months in steel, eight in acacia) leaves the fruit alone rather than dressing it up. Eleven years on, it's red-fruited, mineral, light on its feet. Nobody's hiding it under oak.