Founded in 1452 to fund the hospital of Krems and still owned by the municipality, Stadt Krems is one of Austria's oldest wineries. And since Fritz Miesbauer arrived in 2003, one of Kremstal's best. Dry as all Austrian Riesling is, with the high dry extract that comes of a long ripening season and the nervy freshness of big day-to-night temperature swings: ripe citrus, stone fruit, a floral lift, and a mineral line running underneath the whole thing. Nearly 600 years of institutional memory, and it still tastes electric.