Kiedrich Gräfenberg, the "Hill of the Counts", has been on record as a great site since the late 12th century: a steep, southwest-facing slope tucked into a sheltered side valley of the Rheingau, with deep, stony soil doing the heavy lifting. Robert Weil picks this Spätlese from very ripe grapes without botrytis, so the sweetness reads as pure fruit rather than honeyed richness, and the Riesling acidity keeps the mid-palate lit from underneath. Eight centuries of documented pedigree, and it still tastes like a mountain stream.