Roagna Barbaresco Gallina 2018

Roagna farms these Barbaresco vines, 25 to 50 years old, rooted in chalky limestone, with the kind of patience that shows up later: fermentation kicks off with indigenous yeasts from a pied de cuvée, the cap stays submerged for 60 to 70 days, and the wine then sits five years in large neutral botti. Nothing here is rushed or dressed up; the fruit is red and high-toned, the tannin fine-grained and long, the mid-palate carrying that chalky lift straight from the soil. This is Nebbiolo as a slow argument, and it wins.