Roagna Barbaresco Albesani 2017

Roagna farms this Barbaresco naturally on chalky limestone, with vines running 25 to 50 years old. And then does the slow, old-fashioned thing in the cellar: indigenous yeasts, a submerged cap that can sit for 60 to 70 days, five years in large neutral botti. That's Nebbiolo built on structure rather than extraction, tannin that's fine-grained and persistent instead of loud, with the mid-palate length that only patience buys. Nothing here is borrowed from oak. It's all limestone, time, and 2017.