Pikes Hills and Valleys Riesling 2021

Pikes sits in Polish Hill, the Clare Valley subregion that made Australian Riesling worth arguing about, and brothers Andrew and Neil Pike have run every part of the place themselves since 1984. The 2021 is pale green and vibrant, all lemon, granny smith apple and a lift of florals, with lemon-lime and apple carrying the palate. There's a touch of sweetness here, but the acid frames it. Length and structure, not sugar for its own sake.