Pierre Peters L'Etonnant Monsieur Victor Mark 15

Pierre Péters has spent decades becoming shorthand for what Champagne can be at its most site-driven, and this bottling is the house showing its hand: the best tank of the latest Les Chétillons vintage married to the best tank of Réserve Oubliée, a perpetual reserve running back to 1988, aged under cork and rested long on its lees. That marriage gives you both the tension of a single great vineyard and the depth only decades of accumulated wine can buy. Mid-palate breadth without losing the chalky spine. The label is drawn by Rodolphe's son Victor, an artist; the wine inside is just as personal.