Pierre Peters L'Etonnant Monsieur Victor Mark 14

Pierre Péters has spent decades becoming shorthand for serious grower Champagne, and this is the house at its most self-indulgent: the best tank of the latest Les Chétillons vintage married to the best tank of Réserve Oubliée, a perpetual reserve reaching back to 1988, aged under cork and rested a long while on its lees. That combination gives you both the tension of a single great vintage and the depth of thirty-odd years of accumulated memory on the mid-palate. Even the label is a family affair. Drawn by Rodolphe's son Victor, an artist in his own right.