Piedrasassi pulls this Syrah from two Sta. Rita Hills sites that couldn't be more opposed, Patterson on a north-facing slope, Sebastiano perched high above the valley facing southeast, across clay loam over sandstone and limestone. Seventy percent whole-cluster and native yeast in open concrete gives it that peppery, stemmy lift over dark fruit, with structure that comes from the vineyard rather than the cellar. Cool-climate California Syrah, farmed organically and left alone. This is what the grape does when nobody's trying to make it taste like somewhere else.