Kiralyudvar Pezgo Sparkling 2021

Kiralyudvar farms biodynamically in Tokaj, certified since the 2021 vintage's predecessors, going back to 2008, and this sparkling Furmint pulls from Henye, a historic and much-lauded vineyard, on clay and volcanic rhyolite tuff. Tony Hwang launched the wine in 2007 with an eye toward Huët's revered Pétillant, and that lineage shows: volcanic soil gives it a hard, saline spine under the bubbles, and the Furmint keeps everything tight rather than fat. Peszsgő is just local dialect for "sparkling". The wine is considerably less modest than the name.