Kelsey Albro Itämeri's itä is woman-owned and Walla Walla-rooted, chasing the terroir of the valley's eastern foothills with a restrained hand. And this one is pure mischief: 100% Zinfandel through seven days of carbonic maceration, a cheeky nod to Beaujolais nouveau built from Walla Walla fruit. Neutral French oak keeps it out of the way, so what you get is perfumed aromatics, soft tannin, and a light-bodied red that drinks like it has somewhere to be. Zinfandel doesn't have to be a heavyweight to be delicious.