Guido Porro is a fourth-generation Barolista, and tradition still runs the show here: Nebbiolo left hanging on clay and limestone until the first autumn fogs roll through, a sign the long season has finally done its work. The 1998 plantings and sustainable farming give the 2018 a classical build. The tannin and structure Barolo is supposed to have, with the fruit and minerality sitting right in the mid-palate rather than shouting over it. This is Nebbiolo made the way it's been made for generations, and it tastes like someone who knows exactly what he's doing.