Francois Cotat Le Grande Cote Sancerre 2023

Cotat's monopole in Chavignol is four-tenths of a hectare of south-facing slope so steep and so thin-soiled that the Kimmeridgian limestone is essentially the vineyard. 40-year-old vines clinging to chalk. Indigenous yeast, old demi-muids, no fining or filtration: this is Sancerre made like a serious white Burgundy, all mid-palate weight and salinity rather than the usual grapefruit shorthand. Sauvignon Blanc with a sense of place, and nobody's hiding it under stainless steel.