Silvia Maestrelli founded Tenuta di Fessina in 2007 on Etna's northeastern flank, farming parcels scattered from Rovittello at 2,200 feet up to Milo at 3,280. Different faces of the same volcano. Erse follows the old artisan practice here, co-fermenting Nerello Mascalese and Cappuccio with a splash of white Minnella and Carricante, and the result is light ruby and deceptively delicate: wild blackberry, coriander, clove and pink pepper over tannins that are soft and austere at once. Red and white grapes in the same glass, the way Etna did it for centuries before anyone called it a technique.