Marcel Ott left Alsace in 1912 chasing a Mediterranean estate, and his Bandol rosé, Mourvèdre-led, with Cinsault and Grenache, is still the benchmark more than a century later, now under the stewardship of Champagne Louis Roederer. Peach with a flash of copper in the glass, then citrus and passion fruit on a nose that doesn't whisper; the palate is full and round, kept honest by mandarin freshness and an odd, welcome flick of Sichuan red pepper. The finish runs long on pomelo pith. This is rosé built with structure, not rosé built to disappear.