Saint-Pourçain sits at the dead center of France, in the Allier, a department the trade knows better for its oak forests, the ones that end up as barrels in everybody else's cellar, than for what it bottles itself. Denis has been making sparkling wine from Gamay here since 2010: early-picked fruit, gently pressed to a Blanc de Noirs, fermented in stainless and left fifteen months sur lattes before disgorgement, then finished with no dosage. Nothing sweet propping it up. This is Gamay with its structure showing.