Anita Kuhnel came to wine sideways, professional cycling first, vines second, and took over these 18 hectares in 2015 to build her own domaine. This cuvée comes off a 65-year-old planting low on the slope at 240 meters in Les Caves, decomposing granite streaked with manganese, and it drinks like it: deep purple, very ripe black fruit, a wave of spice, and a material that genuinely envelops the mid-palate before a rounded finish. The tannins are heady rather than lean. This is the powerful side of Gamay, not the pretty one.