Conti Boca Rosso delle Donne 2017

Boca sits in Alto Piemonte, where Nebbiolo goes by Spanna and rarely travels alone. Here it's 75%, rounded out with Vespolina and a splash of Uva Rara, each fermented spontaneously and separately in steel before assembly. Three years in 500-liter botti and larger formats means no new-oak makeup: the tannin is fine-grained and insistent, the mid-palate all red fruit and iron-flecked minerality. This is Nebbiolo with its bones showing, and nobody's hiding it under vanilla.