Clos de la Roilette Fleurie Beaujolais Cuvee Tardive 2023

Roilette's plot sits on granite and clay in Fleurie, with vines over 80 years old. This bottling carries the Coudert family name rather than the classic label, after a well-known Champagne house took issue with the original. Eighteen days of whole-cluster semi-carbonic in concrete, then eight months in foudre, with barely a gram of sulfur per hectoliter: Gamay with real tannin under the fruit, and a mid-palate that keeps going. Granite you can taste, and nobody's dressing it up.