Ciacci Piccolomini only makes this Riserva in exceptional vintages, drawing the best fruit from Pianrosso, their cru in Castelnuovo dell'Abate, where marl-rich soils climb from 180 to 240 meters. Four years in large Slavonian oak, 7 to 30 hectoliters, means the wood frames rather than flavors: Sangiovese with tannin that has some grip left in it, savory depth on the mid-palate, and the kind of structure that comes from farming organically on a site the producer clearly trusts. This is Brunello in its dress clothes, and 2015 was a vintage worth dressing up for.