Champagne Perseval Farge Cuvee de Reserve 1er Cru Brut NV

Four hectares in Chamery, a 1er Cru village on the Petite Montagne side of the Montagne de Reims, farmed by a family that's been in town since the early 1700s. Benoist and Isabelle Perseval are just the current custodians. The "C. de Reserve" leans on Chardonnay from Les Spectres, a massale-selected parcel averaging 30 years old, with Pinot Noir and Meunier filling in around the edges; a gentle vertical pressing keeps the fruit clear and the structure fine-boned. Grower Champagne from a village most people can't find on the map, which is exactly the point.