Champagne Dumont Domaine de Mondeville Brut 396 NV

The Dumont family works out of Champignol-lez-Mondeville in the Aube, some 90 miles southeast of Reims and Épernay, where south-facing slopes and forested hills give base wines that lean sumptuous rather than sharp-elbowed. Ninety percent Pinot Noir with a splash of Chardonnay, whole berries vinified cold. The fruit stays plush and the structure stays generous through the mid-palate. This is Champagne from the warmer, quieter end of the map, and it tastes like it.