Christophe Baron came to Walla Walla from Champagne and found a stretch of valley floor buried in basalt cobblestone under a scant foot or so of silty loam. The kind of ground that made his name, here planted to Tempranillo in 2000 at a punishing 10' by 4' density. Eighteen months in French oak, half of it new, frames rather than smothers: dark fruit, a savory mid-palate, tannin with the stony grip that cobblestone sites tend to hand over. Six acres, 393 cases, biodynamically farmed. Spain's grape speaking fluent Walla Walla.