Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 2017

Cavallotto farms San Giuseppe, a 2.38-hectare parcel in the heart of Bricco Boschis, and the calcareous clay underneath gives this 2017 Nebbiolo its spine. Indigenous-yeast fermentation runs three to five weeks on the skins, then four to five years in large Slavonian casks. Old-school Barolo, where the wood is a vessel and not a flavor. Tannin with real grip, a mid-palate that keeps unfolding, and nobody's hiding any of it under vanilla.