Allan Scott and his wife Catherine set up shop in Marlborough in 1990, among the first independents in a region Allan helped plant. He's worked every harvest since 1973, which is the kind of résumé that doesn't need embellishing. Pale lemon in the glass, textbook Marlborough on the nose: citrus, gooseberry, a lift of passion fruit, with racy acidity carrying a firmer structure than the style usually gets credit for. This is what the grape tastes like when someone's been doing it since the beginning.