The Mosses farm certified-organic Cabernet Franc in the Loire on a patchwork of clay, gravel, and schist, with vines running thirty to fifty years old. Enough age to give the fruit some quiet authority. Destemmed into large wooden vats, fermented and punched down together, then racked to old Burgundian barrels for a spontaneous malolactic and a slow aging on the fine lees; the oak is there for shape, not for sweetness. The result is Cabernet Franc with real minerality and a firm, fine-grained tannin. Nobody's hiding it under vanilla.