Agnes et Rene Mosse Anjou Les Bonnes Blanches 2022

Agnès et René Mosse farm this certified-organic Chenin on a Loire patchwork of clay, gravel, and schist, with forty-year-old vines doing the heavy lifting. Slow-pressed, fermented and aged in old Burgundian barrels, old being the operative word, since the wood is there for texture, not flavor, and bottled with just 20 mg per liter of sulfur. The result is Chenin with real mid-palate weight and a schisty mineral edge underneath: nobody's hiding it under oak.