Villers-Marmery is the odd one out in the Montagne de Reims, a village that should be Pinot country but plants over ninety percent Chardonnay, thanks to chalk soil and an exposition that suits it. Margaine's blend is 95% Chardonnay drawn on a perpetual reserve stretching back to 2002, fermented and aged in stainless steel with only 60% malo and four years on the lees, so the mid-palate carries depth without losing its chalky edge. At 4.5g/L dosage, there's nowhere to hide. This is Champagne built on terroir, not sugar.
About the Producer
Region: Montagne de Reims
Premier cru sites in Villers-Marmery
Total vineyard holdings: 6.5 hectares
Annual production: 5,800 cases
Vines: 90% chardonnay, 10% pinot noir
Villers-Marmery is an anomaly in the Montagne de Reims, an island of Chardonnay in a sea of Pinot Noir creating near Blanc de Blancs and giving the most simply delicious Champagnes in this portfolio. These can be some of the most hauntingly beautiful and original Champagnes you can drink. The clone of Chardonnay used by Margaine in Villers-Marmery is specific to this area and cannot be found in other parts of Champagne.
Mathilde Margaine is the 5th generation, and first woman, to oversee the Margaine estate in Villers-Marmery. Currently she still works with her father in all aspects of the domaine, from the vineyards to the winery, and the export and marketing. Before returning to the domaine in 2018, Mathilde spent time in the Netherlands and Australia, and received her Masters in International Wine Trade from the Burgundy School of Business in Dijon. After a year or so working in New York City as a brand ambassador for a Champagne house, she decided to return home to Villers-Marmery.
The majority of Margaine’s holdings are in the village of Villers-Marmery, a 95% village for Chardonnay, and the parcels here are old averaging about 32 years. Margaine also has a small parcel of Pinot Noir in the village of Verzy.
The vintage Blanc de Blancs [the “Spécial Club” bottling] from this grower based in the little-known village of Villers-Marmery at the far eastern end of the Montagne de Reims is refined, incisive, and vinous, built on understated lemon fruit, and acquiring tantalizing walnut-butter notes with time.
-Andrew Jefford, The New France
