Domaine Anita Moulin-a-Vent Tres Vieille Vigne 2020

Anita produces this cuvée from a 65-year-old planting on a lower part of the slope (240 meters altitude) in Les Caves in soils of decomposing granite with streaks of manganese. If the “Reine de Nuit” offers a certain lifted elegance, “Tres Vieille Vigne” harnesses the power and sap these old vines are capable of. To that end, Anita ages 25% of the blend in used Burgundy barrels, extending the elevage to ten months—a regimen which underlines the Pinot Noir-like qualities of this site even more clearly than the “Reine de Nuit.” A heady overlay of savory spice calls to mind great Morey-Saint-Denis, and its dark-cast fruit is dense but not overdone.