Domaine Tollot-Beaut Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2023

Tollot-Beaut has been at this since François started planting in Chorey-lès-Beaune in the late 1880s, and by 1921 they were among the first in Burgundy bottling under their own name. That's a long memory to bring to the Corton hill. The 2023 is classic Corton-Charlemagne: white peach and apple blossom, toast and brioche from 60% new oak, all of it wrapped around a core of salty minerality with real weight and layered texture. The nerve and tension underneath is the whole point. This is white Burgundy with a spine, not a sofa.