Comando G farms decomposed granite in the Sierra de Gredos, and this cuvée comes off a north-facing slope planted to 70-plus-year-old Garnacha. High enough that harvest often runs into October and the wine still lands at a modest 12.5%. That combination gives you Garnacha with lift rather than heft: granite minerality running through the mid-palate, fine tannin, fruit that's red and translucent instead of jammy. Seventy years of vine memory, and nobody's hiding a bit of it under oak.
Professional Ratings
98
Wine Advocate
97
James Suckling
About the Producer
A short distance from Madrid, the rugged, weathered peaks of the Sierra de Gredos serve as a refreshingly cool retreat from the heat and bustle of the capital. Ancient hilltop towns and cottages dot the tortured landscape of alpine meadows, tumbled boulders, and thick scrub brush. Clustered around this rugged range are three DOs: Cebreros, Mentrida, and Viños de Madrid. Once known for producing reliably inexpensive and straightforward country wines to slake the capital’s thirst, the rediscovery and revitalization of vineyards high up in the Sierra de Gredos has revolutionized and redefined win…