Comando G farms Garnacha in the Sierra de Gredos, an hour from Madrid but a world away. Granite, altitude, and seventy-plus-year-old vines on a north-facing slope that ripens so slowly the fruit hangs into October and still comes in at a modest 12.5%. The granite reads straight through: high-toned red fruit, fine-grained tannin, and a mid-palate that's more tension than weight, with minerality doing the work most people expect from oak. This is Garnacha as a mountain wine, not a sunny one.
Professional Ratings
98
Wine Advocate
97
James Suckling
About the Producer
A short distance from Madrid, the rugged, weathered peaks of the Sierra de Gredos serve as a refreshingly cool retreat from the heat and bustle of the capital. Ancient hilltop towns and cottages dot the tortured landscape of alpine meadows, tumbled boulders, and thick scrub brush. Clustered around this rugged range are three DOs: Cebreros, Mentrida, and Viños de Madrid. Once known for producing reliably inexpensive and straightforward country wines to slake the capital’s thirst, the rediscovery and revitalization of vineyards high up in the Sierra de Gredos has revolutionized and redefined win…
