Winemaker Notes
My colleagues and I recently debated whether to include Fattoria Moretto’s Lambrusco in our sparkling wine promotion, or if it was better suited to a “chilled reds” offering. After all, it’s undeniably effervescent—not boisterously so, just pleasantly frizzante . And yet, Lambrusco doesn’t play the same role as a racy blanc de blancs or easy-drinking crémant ; it is a dry red, and in the case of Moretto’s Monovitigno, a very deep, robust one at that: it’s velvety, full-bodied, and bursting with brambly berries and generous notes of amaretto and cherry pit. How then to classify this vinous red sparkler, to pinpoint its cohort when it really lives in a category all its own, or rather, in several conflicting ones?? Even as wine professionals, we were stumped. If you haven’t tried a Lambrusco of late, or feel apprehensive about its enigmatic qualities, consider the experience of tasting it. Moretto’s satisfies many things at once: It’s as festive as a Champagne, as lighthearted as a Beaujolais, and as seriously food-friendly as any other rosso from northern Italy. That it comes from the country’s culinary epicenter, Emilia-Romagna, and is made from the hearty, red-stalked subtype of the Lambrusco grape called Grasparossa, speaks volumes of its gastronomical pedigree. Served cool, it shines alongside anything that calls for a palate reset, buffing it clean with a fine and chalky tannin. A platter of well-marbled charcuterie, ripe and creamy cheeses, slow-cooked bolognese all come to mind, as does a long, lingering meal with a variety of sides piled high. As you can see, we did decide to include it in our sparkling wine sale, making November a great time to discover—or revisit—this one-of-a-kind red, er, sparkler.
About the Producer
Domenico Altariva grew up watching his parents work the land; so when he married and bought a house with his new wife, Albertina, it was natural that he also bought a little land that he would tend in his spare time. A salesman by trade, he was also an avid oenophile, so he chose to plant vineyards from which he made wine for personal consumption. Domenico and Albertina slowly increased their wine production and turned their hobby into a full-time vocation, selling the wine in bulk to private clients.
