The Cantina Bartolo Mascarello is one of the legendary and historic producers of the Barolo appellation. The winery has stood as a beacon of staunch Barolo traditionalism since its official inception in 1918. The roots of the estate go back further, to the 19th century when the Mascarello family produced grapes which they sold to large wine producing houses in the nearby township of Bra.
For many Barolo collectors, the Cantina Bartolo Mascarello has a special place in their hearts because of its fully independent spirit and unwavering dedication to the traditions and practices of a bygone era in Barolo. When Barolo producers began producing ‘Single-Cru’ wines in the 60’s and 70’s, Bartolo refused to follow suit claiming staunchly that his blended wine, made from their four vineyards in Barolo and La Morra, made a better wine combined than as single-vineyard expressions. To this day, this same philosophy and practice remains firmly in place. And when Barrique-aged Barolo became popular in the late 80’s and 90’s, Bartolo was quick to decry his opposition (as well as to Italy’s extremely popular though corrupt leader, Silvio Berlusconi) by designing a now infamous hand-written label with the words, “No Barrique, No Berlusconi” emblazoned across the front. These labels, as well as others that Bartolo had designed, were often randomly slipped into cases with their regular labeled bottles, much like the golden tickets in Willy Wonka, and are prized possessions for the die-hard Bartolo fan! Other traditions continue as well at this venerable estate. Much of the wine is still sold to private clients who make the pilgrimage each year to taste and pick up their yearly allotment, just as it was done in the 50’s and 60’s.
Winemaker Notes
Viticulture: Traditional, conventional. Rows are spaced at 2.5 meters and plants at 90-100 cms. Average age of vines is about 25 years, ranging from 60-70 years old in the San Lorenzo to newly replanted plots in Cannubi. We do not use chemical pesticides or fertilizers. Composted cow manure is used for fertilization and mechanical mowing is used to keep cover plants under control. Sulfur and copper are used during the season to combat oidium and peronospora. Vines are unirrigated (by DOCG laws). Vinification: The four vineyards’ production is co-fermented in 3-4 large concrete tanks. The tank does not have an internal temperature control system but fermentation temperatures are monitored daily and the must is cooled with a cold-water heat exchanger if it exceeds 31C. We do not keep each vineyard’s grapes separate during the fermentation; they are mixed together as they arrive at the cantina. No single-vineyard “cru” Barolo is made. The fermentation typically occurs from indigenous yeasts, but we will add yeast if necessary. Pump-overs are performed twice a day. Once fermentation is complete (typically 15-18 days), the wine is left to macerate on the skins (submerged cap) for an additional few weeks. The total length of maceration (including the fermentation time) is from 30 to 50 days, and is generally the only variable in the winemaking for the Barolo on a year-to-year basis and is based entirely on the qualitative character of the vintage. The cantina uses a gentle hydraulic basket press. Aging: The Barolo is stored in large botti (casks) of Slavonian Oak for about 30 months in a natural ageing cellar. The wine is racked once each year, then bottled in late July three years after the vintage. Malolactic fermentation is not forced and occurs in the botti. The botti range from 25 to 50 hectoliters and average 10-12 years of age. The bottles are held for an additional year until the following September when the wine is released in the fourth year after the vintage. Vineyard: In the commune of Barolo: San Lorenzo (0.25ha), Rue (0.5 ha), Canubbi (1.0ha) In the commune of La Morra: Rocche di Annunziata (1.2ha). Orientation: San Lorenzo: Southwest; Rue: Southeast; Canubbi: South-Southeast (bowl); Rocche: Southeast.
Professional Ratings
95
Wine SpectatorThis graceful, fragrant Barolo exhibits strawberry, cherry, rose hip, mineral and earth flavors. There's grip from the lightly chewy tannins, plus vivid acidity. Overall, this red is pure, expressive and fluid. Shows fine length and intensity. Best from 2027 through 2042. From Italy.—B.S.
94
Vinous
About the Producer
The Cantina Bartolo Mascarello is one of the legendary and historic producers of the Barolo appellation. The winery has stood as a beacon of staunch Barolo traditionalism since its official inception in 1918. The roots of the estate go back further, to the 19 th century when the Mascarello family produced grapes which they sold to large wine producing houses in the nearby township of Bra. At around the turn of the century, though, a dozen or so producers including Bartolomeo Mascarello – Bartolo’s grandfather – established a much smaller entity, called the ‘Barolo Co-operative Winery’, and Bar…
