Winemaker Notes
A wonderful thing about Didier Barral is that he is too cut off from the rest of the world to know what the latest wine trends are, and too busy in his vines to care. On the surface he’s a winemaker, but it may be more correct to say he is a skilled farmer who obsesses over the small details and health of his soils, his various crops, his pigs and cows, his vines, and guides thriving grapes into vibrant wine. What you get is not what is hip or hot, but what the farm gives that vintage. The long macerations, slow presses, and years of aging in old barrels, during which he intervenes rarely and gently (nothing is ever added—not even a dollop), allow the juice to soak in the ambience and scents of the rural surroundings. The result is something completely unclassifiable, delightfully rustic, and totally wild: a mix of brambly aromatics, fresh-cut hay, meaty, gamy tannins, and chewy black fruit. Those initiated to Jadis will know what I mean, and those uninitiated really need to try it to believe it. Take your time with it, though. Let it breathe, and give it your full attention. It is a living piece of a distant farm delivered to your glass from one of the remotest corners of France.
About the Producer
Didier Barral represents the thirteenth generation to grow grapes in the tiny hamlet of Lenthéric, within the confines of the Faugères appellation deep in the heart of the Languedoc. While his forebears made a living off of cultivating the vine, Didier took the family business to the next level when he began estate-bottling and commercializing his wines on a larger scale in 1993. Named for Didier's grandfather, Domaine Leon Barral is a beacon of revolutionary winegrowing: shortly after founding the domaine, Didier decided that biodynamic practices were the best choice for farming his thirty hectares of vineyards. He has pioneered numerous innovative agronomic techniques with the goal of establishing his vineyards as a self-sustaining ecosystem. This Renaissance man, naturalist, and biodynamic maven commands tremendous respect among his peers for his visionary approach to topics like soil management, pest control, and drought mitigation in his vineyards. Incorporating biodynamic practices necessitates enormous investment and an uncompromising work ethic. With so much land to farm, it is fortunate that Didier has so much help. His workers of choice? A team of twenty cows, horses, and pigs that roam the vineyards during winter, grazing the cover crops while adding natural fertilizer to the soil. Without compacting the earth the way a tractor would, the animals effectively cultivate healthy microbial activity, bringing mushrooms, ants, ladybugs, earthworms, and other essential life forms, which add important nutrients while aerating the soil. This is the concept of sustainability at its finest, where the ecosystem thrives from the symbiotic relationships Didier has fostered amid the vines. This approach ultimately translates to tremendously powerful, complex, and age-worthy wines inflected with an earthy mineral note from the schist soils of Faugères. Most of Didier’s vines get full southern sun exposure; in this Mediterranean climate where summer heat waves and drought are constant during the growing season, pruning in the gobelet style shelters the grapes from the blistering sun. Most of his vines are very old—some up to ninety years of age—keeping yields naturally low. Once in the cellar, Didier’s harvest is cared for with the same zeal, although he would consider the wine all but finished once it leaves the vineyard. This level of artisanship was once nearly extinct, had it not been for Didier and the profound influence he is having over other viticulteurs who now see how his work ethic and ideology translates to results.
• Grapes are biodynamically farmed • All grapes are harvested by hand and then sorted • Depending on the variety, grapes are de-stemmed (in general, grapes from the youngest vines), however whole clusters are also used • No SO2 is added until a small dose at bottling • Wine is fermented with natural yeasts • Wines are never racked, filtered, or fined
