Domaine des Comtes Lafon Monthelie 1er Cru Les Duresses 2021

Red Meursault is the kind of thing that makes people do a double take, and the Lafon family, in Meursault since 1865, farms just over a hectare of Pinot Noir on the hill behind the village, some of it planted back in 1975. The soil shifts as you climb, red and stony at the base turning whiter with elevation, and you can feel that in the glass: fruit with a stony spine running through the mid-palate rather than any sense of weight for its own sake. Meursault makes red, and this is the domaine to prove it.